Renowned wine critic James Suckling and his colleague Aldo Fiordelli recently visited Bolgheri, a coastal region in Tuscany, where they tasted almost 200 wines from the 2021 and 2022 vintages. Bolgheri is known for its red wines made primarily from cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc grapes, drawing comparisons to Bordeaux and Napa Valley.
Suckling highlighted the unique climate and position of Bolgheri, with vineyards close to the Mediterranean Sea, creating a cool and herbaceous character in the red wines. During their tasting, the duo found that many winemakers in Bolgheri are moving away from late grape picking and higher-alcohol wines, focusing on producing more transparent and refined wines.
The 2021 vintage was favored by most winemakers for its longer growing season, allowing for the development of aromas and tannins in the red wines. The 2022 vintage, although hotter, surprised Suckling and Fiordelli with its freshness and drinkability, despite initial concerns about similarities to the 2020 vintage.
Vermentino wines from Bolgheri also impressed the critics, with a focus on depth, intensity, and structure. Experimentation with different fermentation and aging vessels was observed, reflecting a trend towards making earlier-drinking yet structured red wines.
While Bolgheri wines may lack international recognition compared to other Italian appellations, producers remain optimistic about the region’s potential. Suckling believes that by maintaining a focus on drinkability and local character, Bolgheri wines will soon gain popularity in global markets. Notable wines from Bolgheri that received high ratings from Suckling include Argentiera Toscana Ventaglio 2020, Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 2021, Masseto Toscana 2021, and Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri-Sassicaia Sassicaia 2021.
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